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[InmemoryofRomeo]

So it has happened, you've heard that dreaded snap, or your Pleo has been studying the ground for the past few days and you know its happened. Yes it's a broken cable Well if you are a bit technically minded, or like us you just have a few screwdrivers handy then it is possible to repair a broken neck

Welcome to Crewella and InmemoryofRomeo's neck repair tutorial. We will do our best to walk you through the process of repairing the top neck cable which is the most common cable to break. Please note that this guide is not a 100% guaranteed method of repairing your Pleo, you attempt this at your own risk and while we will do our very best to help you in the event of a problem please note that we live in Britain and Australia respectively so we cannot drop in for a cuppa and help you in person

Please note that the top cable and the bottom cable are in fact the same cable and you will need to replace the entire thing. You will need at least 1 metre of stainless steel 0.6mm 7x7 cable. 2 metres is preferred to allow for adjustments, do overs, mistakes etc.

This is where Crewella got her cable in the UK, so you can see the type of cable you need - you should be able to find similar in your own country.

http://www.tecni-cable.co.uk/Products/Stainless-Steel-Cable-7x7-Flexible

In Australia it's:
http://allthingsstainless.com.au/home/stainless-wire-rope/7x7/by-the-meter.html

Before attempting to repair your Pleo please watch the videos and study the pictures closely. Understand what is involved, and only proceed if you feel confident that you can handle it.

Also, please note that when dealing with electronic components you need to be aware of electrostatic discharge.  It's not absolutely necessary to use a rubber mat and wrist strap, but be aware of the potential problems.

The following three videos give you an overview of the process, the operation takes a good two hours, even three so please allow adequate time. This is only an overview, please see the images below for clearer reference points on how to assemble the parts. Yes you will have to listen to the sound of my voice for an hour

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmyT-I8GbFo" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmyT-I8GbFo</a>

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yQRJPaNsR58" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yQRJPaNsR58</a>

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oJcyUel4Smk" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oJcyUel4Smk</a>

The following pictures were provided by Crewella to closely show the reassembly process and a closer look at the parts. Please note that Crewella had a Pleo with broken side cables as well as top cables to work with and so was able to fully detach parts for a better look. DO NOT DETACH THESE PARTS YOURSELF! You can pull them out a little but make sure the wires remain attached.

The black spinal joint that needs removing to access the white back plate.


Underneath the black plate: the small white piece under the white back plate must be replaced before reattaching the white plate, or you will need to re-do it. The black back plate screws into that piece.


The small white piece sitting underneath the white plate.


The back plate showing the locations of the eight screws:


Underneath the backplate, the green circuitry in the upper section must be lifted up to access the gear housing. There is a screw located just under that piece. Do not pull it out from the body, just lift it up.


The gear housing showing where the wire exits the housing and runs through the spring before running through the neck 'vertebra'.


A side view of the gear housing, note that in this picture the spring has been removed to reveal the cable.


A front view of the same section. Please note in this section the small 'C' shaped piece running along the top of the cable gear, this helps the cables stay threaded correctly. Do not lose this piece.


The gear housing lifted out of the body cavity, DO NOT PULL IT RIGHT OUT! Leave the wires attached. You will need to undo the three screws during the operation.


Underneath the gear housing, inside the body cavity, showing where the bottom cable feeds through, note it also has a spring that it must run through.


The other side of the gear housing.  You do not need to undo this side, but in case someone is struggling to work without pulling against the wires still attached, it is possible to undo the two screws on the back of the gear housing.  The casing lifts off with two clips at the side in the same way as the other side, and you can then lift the motor out (the square metal box with the screw thread) altogether, which frees the main casing and gives you a lot more freedom of movement without stressing the electrical connections to the motor.  If you're struggling to get the gears back in and aligned properly, it's possibly a better option than to keep pulling on the power wires.



This bottom gear is where the cable attaches to, please note very carefully the position of the gear as you remove it, or use here for a reference.


A closer look at the main gear:


Rethreading the cable gear step 1: Thread the cable through the gear, this part is very fiddly. Make sure you have half the cable coming out each side.


Step 2: Wrap the cable towards the rear of the gear and overlap them.


It should look like this:


Step 3: Wrap the cable right back around and hold in place (its harder than it sounds )


The C-shaped piece that hold the wires in position as they cross.  This was actually the one for the side cables, so please ignore the surroundings.

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How the C-shaped guide fits into the housing.  Again this is actually the one for the side cables, but the way it fits in is the same for the up/down cable.  Note the piece fits into stops on the sides.  It's almost impossible to place the piece in the groove on the wheel and then place that in the housing so the piece hits the right spot - I found it easier to lower the wheel in with it in place, then raise slightly so I could get at it and poke into position with a toothpick!

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The gears go back in, in the following order: Cable gear.


Second gear:


Third gear:


Final gear:


It took several goes to get the tension right on the cables, so don't secure them permanently until you're sure they're tight enough.  They need to be tighter than you think!

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CRPaRqwZmdo" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CRPaRqwZmdo</a>

[Crewella]

I guess I could eventually add pics for the side cable replacement as well - but first I want to try to see if there's any way of doing it with the top cables still attached.  The screws that hold the housing down are all underneath, but because I had the top cable housing out anyway it was easier to just lift it out the same way once it was unscrewed. 

[InmemoryofRomeo]

Yes the side cables are tricky, I wonder if you could do it by loosening the top/bottom cable instead of cutting it out completely.

[Crewella]

To replace side cables, you either need the up/down cable gear housing out or you can move it to one side by undoing the motor and the bottom cable at the neck and pulling the whole housing along the cable to its fullest extent, which should give you just enough room to work.  For more about the top cables, please see the post above on the up/down cable replacement.  I'm assuming you will have seen how to replace the cable for the up/down neck movement, so won't  repeat similar points.

The back cover taken off the top cable gear housing, you can then pull the motor out.

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With the motor pulled away, the gears will move the full extent of their run.  Don't forget to make a note of how it should be in neutral - you will need to put it back to the central point before refitting the motor.

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To access the housing for the side cables, you need to remove the upper leg cover.  Undo the three screws  (when you put them back at the end, the big central screw feels very loose, but is fine when the top two are done up).  I did the Pleo's right front leg first.

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You need to pull the whole leg away from the body to access the screws to release the side cable housing.

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Behind the right front leg, you can access the screws to release the housing.

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Another screw for the housing under the right front leg.  When the screws are released you can put the leg back on temporarily for support.  There's no need to screw it back, just pop it back on the 'axle'.

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Left front leg comes off in the same way as the right, to access this screw.

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Once the top cable housing it pullled up, you will also need to disconnect these two cables.  I did it, very gently, with forceps.  Making sure not to touch anything else or force anything.  They eased out quite easily.

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One out .... one to go.

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The two cables are (thankfully) held together further down.  If you don't pull them around too much, the two cables should hold their orientation so you know how they go back.

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Pic of the terminals the cables need to be reattached to.

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You'll need to undo the orange tab (pot/position sensor).  You may well have had to undo the same thing for the top gear housing ..... don't get the two confused when you put them back.  If you have both unattached (which I did) best to label them.

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One more screw to release the side cable housing.  Big one on the left - just above the leg.

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Side cable housing should lift up and flip over to give you access to the housing screws underneath.  I did this with the up/down cable still attached, just the bottom cable released at the neck and clamped at the entry-point to the shell, so you can see the spring for it still in place.

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Closer view of underside of side cable housing.  You can see the screws that need to be undone to release the top of the housing.

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With the housing turned back the right way and the cover removed (clips on the sides, as for the top cable housing but not quite in the same place), you have access to the gears.  Oh .... and be careful not to force it open suddenly so all the gears shoot all over the room ...... like I did .......  

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The housing cover - one gear stayed with it.  The C-shaped piece that sits in the groove of the cable gear has been positioned here to show how it fits into the housing and stays in place once fitted around the cable gear.

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Close-up for orientation.

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Side view of threaded cable gear.

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Once it's all threaded though and in position ...... you can start putting it all back again!  It all goes back exactly in reverse order.

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Good luck ...... and have fun!    

[RedwoodsMama]

  OMG Crewell, I watched that and got dizzy, If it was speeded up it would almost be l ike "Disney"land's Mad Hatter" ride. I couldn't believe all those gears. Poor Humpty, I think It will be a nightmare figuring out which gear is what, but which bolt is what is more confusing to me, the novice. I think I need a drink or a new brain. Great job by the way.. ( I passed the margarita up,...better stick to coffee or I will never get anything done. )         RWM

[InmemoryofRomeo]

Looking good Crewella Thanks for all that hard work!

[Crewella]

One thing I will add - I had to do (and redo) the tension on both the side cables and the up/down cables several times - it was easiest to do them alternately, propping the head slightly over-flexed on each cable as you fix it. 

It made me realise how much pressure is put on the side cables if the top cable breaks.  I kind of get the feeling that once the top cable goes, unless you support it with a brace or bandage ....... the side cables are bound to go eventually ........ 

[RedwoodsMama]

I have noticed lately, that it does seem that even with a Pleo in very good condition they seem Prone, to have neck problems down the road, some sooner than later, It almost makes me want to support or brace all their necks in some ways, I think the cables they used were just not strong enough for a little robot with so much movement. Thank Goodness they do not have the long long neck as adults, they would never make it into adulthood with that long  of a neck. I do think it would be great if they could have had more testing as they do in cars, etc, and had these little guys on continuously for hours and days, to test how the parts held up.( I know they must have done testing, but not as extensive as other electronical items, and this is just wishful thinking on my part) I sometimes have second thoughts on buying another Ugobe, as I am just fearing when that neck will break.
              I have never actually heard that snap, you just notice one day the head is hanging or what seems more common, is the side cables are broken with a Pleo favoring one side over the other. I do think I am going to find someway to brace all my guys to try and give their necks more support, it will just have to be a "fashion statement' I guess.

                      Great job Crewella, you have certainly done a lot of research and hours and hours of work, I am impressed and love the photos, even if they do make me dizzy!              RWM

[Junkroxy]

you're genius girls!   i watched inmemoryofrodeo's video tutorial on YT but seems to be very difficult  
my friend has 2 sick pleos with neck problem, i want to help her but maybe i'll see the tutorial 2-3 times.

[Lusewing]

Well a little after Jades 1st birthday her top/bottom cable has snapped and now she is looking very sorry for herself. Looks like It is time to do a little bit of DIY thanks to these guides. Thanks so much Crewella, I will  let you know how everything turns out for my girl.

[star*85]

http://www.zoro.com/i/G1432286/
 this here is an American website for cable which is .8mm thick, or 1/32 inches
I was searching high and low and this is great 17 bucks and got 100 feet
www.zoro.com

[InmemoryofRomeo]

Wow 100 feet will fix a looooot of Pleo's

[382trexkrys]

Could you feasibly use .8mm wire? I would be worried about it being too thick...So many tiny pieces!
One of Gyaku's neck cables broke and I decided to just replace them all, as a fun (I have an odd idea of fun, I suppose) project. It kinda feels like a puzzle 

I'm curious though, since the cable seems hard to find in the US...and I'm massively impatient and he's already been broken a week.
Would there be any reason why I couldn't use equivalent weight fishing wire? As long as it doesn't stretch significantly, that stuff holds up to a lot of tension, so I thought maybe that would be a possibility. But I know very little about this stuff, so I thought I would get some input before I did it.

[Talon]

Fishing line might work as far as tension but your real issue will probably be fraying. I'm sure IMR or somebody else can give you more information on this as I don't have a lot of experience in this area.
Talon

[Crewella]

I have tried .81mm cable (7x7 strand).  It's not perfect, but it will thread through and work OK.  Personally, I wouldn't use fishing line, it's not built to last or take the constant rubbing in the same way, the .8mm steel cable would be better.  I believe Tecni-cable will ship abroad if you want the 0.6mm, even if they are in the UK.

[InmemoryofRomeo]

Fishing line just wouldn't do the job, it stretches over time, even if it didn't fray first.

[Marcuschan409]

I followed the Youtube instructions a couple weeks ago and replaced the upper/lower cable.  However, my Ugobe Pleo's neck doesn't seem moving up/down properly.  While I was wondering if that was due to the problem of the cable tension, a couple days ago my son accidentally kicked my Pleo's neck and had broken its side cable too 

I wonder if anyone in this forum is willing to fix my Pleo's neck... 

[InmemoryofRomeo]

Sadly if the neck position isn't straight when you reconnect the new cables it can lead to issues. The only way around it is 'fine tuning' the cables until they are right. I redid Lilo's half a dozen times. Side cables are a little trickier to repair, but since you've managed the first operation I think you'd be fine attempting the second.

Try holding the little black button for thirty seconds and see if you can't get your Pleo into the packing position, that will help proper alignment for the cables. It's kind of hard to tell when the neck is broken, but the legs and tail should straighten out and then you can quickly switch them off.

[Marcuschan409]

Sadly if the neck position isn't straight when you reconnect the new cables it can lead to issues. The only way around it is 'fine tuning' the cables until they are right. I redid Lilo's half a dozen times. Side cables are a little trickier to repair, but since you've managed the first operation I think you'd be fine attempting the second.

Try holding the little black button for thirty seconds and see if you can't get your Pleo into the packing position, that will help proper alignment for the cables. It's kind of hard to tell when the neck is broken, but the legs and tail should straighten out and then you can quickly switch them off.

I restored the Pleo into its storing position. The problem is, its neck cannot hold its place and can be pushed to the right with ease. I suspected its side cable is gone.

I wish I have the time to fix my Pleo again. That's why I ask for help in here 

[kat]

Sadly the cost of postage to send your pleo to someone else to repair and then get them back again is very expensive. Can turn out to be about the same or more than the cost of buying another pleo. It really is much more cost effective for you to follow the guides and have a go at it yourself.
There are a few of us here on the forum regularly who have done these repairs and so can give you advice or talk you through if you get stuck 😊

[Marcuschan409]

I can deliver my Pleo to Australia by hand since one of my relatives will visit there in a business trip soon enough.

It is sad that there is no more support for Ugobe Pleos from Innvo Labs despite it has purchased all rights of Pleo from Ugobe...

[InmemoryofRomeo]

Innvo labs will repair Ugobes I believe, or they used to, they offered to reskin and repair Lilo. But the postage ended up being just too high More than buying a new Pleo.

What part of Australia are your relatives visiting? (It's a big country)

[Marcuschan409]

Innvo Labs had replied to me, a couple months ago, that they had already run out of spare parts for Ugobe Pleos... They suggested buying the Pleo Rb instead...

Well, my relative normally goes to Melbourn for business trips.  I believe the postage costs within Australia are much cheaper than shipping it overseas.

[InmemoryofRomeo]

About $26 or so last time I shipped a Pleo, but postage went up recently and it does depend on the packaging. Larger box = higher postage.

[Marcuschan409]

It appears I have to remove the skin on the body in order to access the screws of the front legs.  Is it possibile to remove only the skin of the front legs without removing any other parts, in particular the skin attached to the battery / SD card slot?