So it has happened, you've heard that dreaded snap, or your Pleo has been studying the ground for the past few days and you know its happened. Yes it's a broken cable
Well if you are a bit technically minded, or like us you just have a few screwdrivers handy then it is possible to repair a broken neck
Welcome to Crewella and InmemoryofRomeo's neck repair tutorial. We will do our best to walk you through the process of repairing the top neck cable which is the most common cable to break. Please note that this guide is not a 100% guaranteed method of repairing your Pleo, you attempt this at your own risk and while we will do our very best to help you in the event of a problem please note that we live in Britain and Australia respectively so we cannot drop in for a cuppa and help you in person
Please note that the top cable and the bottom cable are in fact the same cable and you will need to replace the entire thing. You will need at least 1 metre of stainless steel 0.6mm 7x7 cable. 2 metres is preferred to allow for adjustments, do overs, mistakes etc.This is where Crewella got her cable in the UK, so you can see the type of cable you need - you should be able to find similar in your own country.
http://www.tecni-cable.co.uk/Products/Stainless-Steel-Cable-7x7-FlexibleIn Australia it's:
http://allthingsstainless.com.au/home/stainless-wire-rope/7x7/by-the-meter.htmlBefore attempting to repair your Pleo please watch the videos and study the pictures closely. Understand what is involved, and only proceed if you feel confident that you can handle it. Also, please note that when dealing with electronic components you need to be aware of electrostatic discharge. It's not absolutely necessary to use a rubber mat and wrist strap, but be aware of the potential problems.
The following three videos give you an overview of the process, the operation takes a good two hours, even three so please allow adequate time. This is only an overview, please see the images below for clearer reference points on how to assemble the parts. Yes you will have to listen to the sound of my voice for an hour
The following pictures were provided by Crewella to closely show the reassembly process and a closer look at the parts. Please note that Crewella had a Pleo with broken side cables as well as top cables to work with and so was able to fully detach parts for a better look.
DO NOT DETACH THESE PARTS YOURSELF! You can pull them out a little but make sure the wires remain attached.
The black spinal joint that needs removing to access the white back plate.
Underneath the black plate: the small white piece under the white back plate must be replaced before reattaching the white plate, or you will need to re-do it. The black back plate screws into that piece.
The small white piece sitting underneath the white plate.
The back plate showing the locations of the eight screws:
Underneath the backplate, the green circuitry in the upper section must be lifted up to access the gear housing. There is a screw located just under that piece. Do not pull it out from the body, just lift it up.
The gear housing showing where the wire exits the housing and runs through the spring before running through the neck 'vertebra'.
A side view of the gear housing, note that in this picture the spring has been removed to reveal the cable.
A front view of the same section. Please note in this section the small 'C' shaped piece running along the top of the cable gear, this helps the cables stay threaded correctly. Do not lose this piece.
The gear housing lifted out of the body cavity,
DO NOT PULL IT RIGHT OUT! Leave the wires attached. You will need to undo the three screws during the operation.
Underneath the gear housing, inside the body cavity, showing where the bottom cable feeds through, note it also has a spring that it must run through.
The other side of the gear housing. You do not need to undo this side, but in case someone is struggling to work without pulling against the wires still attached, it is possible to undo the two screws on the back of the gear housing. The casing lifts off with two clips at the side in the same way as the other side, and you can then lift the motor out (the square metal box with the screw thread) altogether, which frees the main casing and gives you a lot more freedom of movement without stressing the electrical connections to the motor. If you're struggling to get the gears back in and aligned properly, it's possibly a better option than to keep pulling on the power wires.
This bottom gear is where the cable attaches to, please note very carefully the position of the gear as you remove it, or use here for a reference.
A closer look at the main gear:
Rethreading the cable gear step 1: Thread the cable through the gear, this part is very fiddly. Make sure you have half the cable coming out each side.
Step 2: Wrap the cable towards the rear of the gear and overlap them.
It should look like this:
Step 3: Wrap the cable right back around and hold in place (its harder than it sounds
)
The C-shaped piece that hold the wires in position as they cross. This was actually the one for the side cables, so please ignore the surroundings.
How the C-shaped guide fits into the housing. Again this is actually the one for the side cables, but the way it fits in is the same for the up/down cable. Note the piece fits into stops on the sides. It's almost impossible to place the piece in the groove on the wheel and then place that in the housing so the piece hits the right spot - I found it easier to lower the wheel in with it in place, then raise slightly so I could get at it and poke into position with a toothpick!
The gears go back in, in the following order: Cable gear.
Second gear:
Third gear:
Final gear:
It took several goes to get the tension right on the cables, so don't secure them permanently until you're sure they're tight enough. They need to be tighter than you think!
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Topic: Pleo Neck Repair Tutorial- New and updated! (Read 67195 times)