I hope in 2026, there are still a few Pleo owners out there reading this forum.  I have two Pleos, both classics that I haven't turned on in 10+ years.  Both responded at first when batteries were charged and placed in them but now nothing.  One kept saying "huh" and then just stopped.  The 2nd one is like dead in a fetal position after it moved a bit and made a noise.  Hope someone out there still reads these posts.

So glad this forum still exists.  It's 2026 and I'm not sure anyone reads these anymore but I have two Pleos (the skin looks different but I think they're the same).  Batteries both work but after 10+ years of not turning them on, I most likely need advice about getting them going again.  First time I turned them back on they responded.  The original one did quite a few movements and noises but then just made the "huh" sound repeatedly and is doing nothing now.  The 2nd one that I haven't used much sort of woke up but didn't move much or make sounds and is just sort of dead.  If anyone reads this, maybe I just need to update, I don't know.  Thanks to anyone who reads this. 

Have you seen any of those on Amazon, or a similar battery?
I can't really find a battery with that spec on Amazon.

Sorry for the late.
https://www.amazon.it/Awekamer-5200-5200C-4409709-GPRHC202N026/dp/B0G2563DS3/ref=sr_1_4?__mk_it_IT=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=1P5HPHGFNVTXT&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.3WO4mTiLuj6JpSFHKF24HkYQvVw4u0mS1EDDwc4eobYEitUUG-Fa8wOUgwPEOjHrsfzbZqMXZ-JfbutsayzealOPh_ty98W5CK5Zs5EYcFca8PzUmev-yM2gFDF9QncUMJQteQXMQVHCP3jHnH1XxLXgEl6p5cvpZoMB1FRzB_klF6527yr-v8Q-78r63KCRUIZVGlqDVum2P--cxQsEAb1Xtsi3A-h9f9A_ywK4bNqKzIuGumZNP2LrnkE9gDDUnlxN56gSz9N_EZrra2_JiOPdH-psW_Xt6rTdF2anA3U.McngbTlk-dfh-jmMB9T0VQVGiIb8Pj20lqQQD0U3OXQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=nimh+7.2+v+braava+380&qid=1771420390&sprefix=nimh+7.2+v+braava+380%2Caps%2C257&sr=8-4

As I said battery of Irobot Braava 380 works well!

Hope everyone's doing well. This is good to know information.

Hi. As far as I know, the only way to reset Pleo?s software and reinstall the firmware (which you can also find here) is by starting from the popdemo via the SD card. Another method is through the USB port, but if you have a 64-bit system, it?s going to be tricky. You should also consider the possibility of a hardware fault: the fact that it reads a high temperature even if you replace the thermistor with a 10 kΩ resistor suggests a possible electronic problem. There used to be a trick some time ago of placing a file named automon.txt on the SD card with the command to disable the temperature sensor reading. If you have DinoMITE with its PDF guide, you can find the command to write inside the file?if you haven?t already tried it, of course. Usually, the most common fault I?ve encountered is due to the flat cable connecting the back part to the front part; it?s rather delicate, but replacing it is doable if you?re willing to disassemble and reassemble the unit.
Tradotto da IA

Is there a way to use a command to reset a Ugobe Pleo in Dino-Mite or the pdk?
And do you guys know any other commands to try?
I can?t use an SD card because my second Pleo (the one I want to use this on) is broken (makes the startup sound, moves a little and stops) and when I connect him to Dino-Mite it says that his battery is hot and he shuts down no matter what thermistor or resister I put in there, when I tried updating, turning the temp sensor off, or anything with an SD card it didn?t work and said initialization failed.
I will try an old about 500 mb SD card from eBay when it arrives but just wanted to know if resetting with a command might work, and maybe try some cool commands on my other working Ugobe Pleo.
Thanks.

ok solved

Can anyone point me to an FFC that's compatible with the one inside Pleo, the flat connector that connects the front and back. If I'm not mistaken, it should be 19-pin, 0.5mm pitch, but I'm not sure. Thanks.
translated online, sorry.

"I use a hot air rework station and soldering iron; I use needle and thread to sew the tear (if the surrounding skin is not worn out), then I use the soldering iron at about 250?C to weld the two parts by inserting the tip between the two stitched edges, taking care not to burn the thread holding them together. Having some spare skin from a second Pleo, I use small pieces of it to cover the weld. Hot air on the mounted skin is not recommended because there are internal parts that risk being damaged, especially the wires.

You can use adhesive medical gauze instead of the skin?something like a bandage, but not exactly. That melts at around 100?C, so it?s better to lower the temperature first and then go over the edges of the gauze/bandage with a higher temperature. The aesthetic result is not the best, and the elasticity of the repaired spot is also lost, but I haven?t found another method.

In any case, it all depends on these factors:

Whether the skin is removed from Pleo or still mounted and fully sealed.

Whether the skin already has many worn-out areas.

What kind of result you want to achieve.

I also looked for a way to recreate the worn-out skin parts myself, but I couldn?t find an inexpensive solution?though expensive ones exist, such as creating a positive and negative mold and using materials like Dragon Skin. But the results are still uncertain, and the material is too expensive.

I hope all of this is helpful to you. Bye."

Tradotto da IA

Thanks for the response. So, I should use a hot air soldering gun?