You can't make a really good webpage without css I'm afraid, it controls a lot of useful things.
Try here, it helped me when I first started out with css.
http://htmldog.com/guides/cssbeginner/Oh and remember that IE uses a different setup to Firefox, Chrome, Safari etc and getting things to work on all browsers can be a nightmare
I once spent two hours playing with a page trying to get everything to line up in all browsers and it turned out I just needed one simple code
(.content {display: inline;}) So just be aware of that
Of course you can do a page with just HTML but there will be limitations on how you can set it up.