Topic: TUTORIAL: HOW TO REFURBISH A BATTERY PACK. (Read 47682 times)

barneyj · « **on:** May 26, 2009, 01:02:55 AM »

Don't attempt this unless you're pretty comfortable with power tools and a soldering iron. I didn't take pictures while performing the build so you'll have to settle for a reenactment of sorts.

I used a cut-off wheel on my Dremel tool to cut into the corners to sever the posts. The upper right and lower left have thick posts and the other corners have little pins. Be careful with the Dremel tool. Use safety glasses as the wheels can shatter. Once you cut through that, the tan top parts comes off. Unscrew the two silver screws and the cells will come loose.

Here are all the parts. The cells in the picture are the new ones.

A shot of the bottom of the pack. The upper left is marked "+" and the lower right "-". The contact at the upper right is attached to one end of the thermistor.

Same shot as above with the cells out of the cage.

This is the top of the cell... it's the bottom when inserted into pleo... You can see how the tabs are soldered together. Use the original cells as a reference to build your pack.

The thermistor was removed from the original pack and placed in the corresponding space on the new pack. Scoop up as much of the thermal grease from the original as possible and tape it into position.

One leg of the thermistor is soldered to the last negative post and the other to the plate you see lifted away. It's attached to an insulating pad. Make sure the insulating pad is there - you don't want to short the end of the thermistor to any other post on the pack. Move the other insulating pad from the original pack.

I drilled through from the underside of the tan cover plate at the post then counter sunk it.

Countersunk screws won't protrude from Pleo's belly. If you have modeling paint, you can probably paint the screws to match the plastic bezel.

I hope that helps.

CleosDad · « **Reply #1 on:** May 26, 2009, 11:31:45 AM »

Excellent tutorial! Good find on the batteries too. Thanks for the info.

49er · « **Reply #2 on:** May 28, 2009, 12:37:26 AM »

Hi barneyj,

when you put screws in the top of the battery holder, did you tap the threads in the holder or use self starting screws. If you used a tap what size did you use? If a self starting screw what size? And what length of screw did you use?

barneyj · « **Reply #3 on:** May 28, 2009, 03:26:38 PM »

I had some 3mm machine screws. It went right into the existing hole in the pin. You just need to be careful about over tightening as it'll probably strip it out easily. I think the screws are 5 or 6mm long.

Actually when I first built the pack, I just used the latch to hold the pack in place without the bezel. The kerf from the dremel was pretty wide so I didn't think it was going to go back on properly. There's still a gap, but I can live with it. Maybe someone can try cutting with something thinner like a razor saw.

Burberry016 · « **Reply #4 on:** June 25, 2009, 03:37:06 PM »

This is a little complicated for me. I think I'd rather just milk $49.99 on new batteries than go through the trouble.

barneyj · « **Reply #5 on:** June 25, 2009, 03:57:45 PM »

For those who find the refurb a bit daunting but have a nonfunctional pack, please don't dump it. Those willing to perform the surgery may be interested in buying them from you.

Burberry016 · « **Reply #6 on:** June 26, 2009, 11:11:07 AM »

Oh, that's a good idea!

gucci_boi7782 · « **Reply #7 on:** June 28, 2009, 03:52:43 PM »

Barneyj, I think it's a brilliant idea; even if halfwits like myself couldn't do it to save our lives!

mweed · « **Reply #8 on:** June 29, 2009, 10:42:14 AM »

I remember someone back on the pleoworld forums looked at doing this, but replacing the batteries with higher mAH rated ones. The R/C modeling world offers a whole slew of possibilities and different chargers that could be used.

49er · « **Reply #9 on:** June 29, 2009, 11:45:45 AM »

Here is a link to that. http://web.archive.org/web/20080103171218/http://forums.pleoworld.com/showthread.php?t=902

Burberry016 · « **Reply #10 on:** July 10, 2009, 11:14:56 AM »

I wonder why UGOBE used NiMh batteries...

mweed · « **Reply #11 on:** July 10, 2009, 02:08:33 PM »

Earlier discussions in the link from 49er's post cover that. It was a comprimise. Originally pleo was going to have built-in non-removable batteries.

Burberry016 · « **Reply #12 on:** July 14, 2009, 03:35:49 PM »

I think that would be better than these batteries... $:-\$ $:-\$

mweed · « **Reply #13 on:** July 14, 2009, 04:56:16 PM »

No way! Once the built in batteries go dead (of which all batteries will in time) then your pleo would be dead . . .

Pintokitkat · « **Reply #14 on:** October 30, 2009, 03:19:50 PM »

Quote from: barneyj on May 28, 2009, 03:26:38 PM

Actually when I first built the pack, I just used the latch to hold the pack in place without the bezel. The kerf from the dremel was pretty wide so I didn't think it was going to go back on properly. There's still a gap, but I can live with it. Maybe someone can try cutting with something thinner like a razor saw.

I had one cell go dead and Little Jim started to simply give one, very clear snore when I switched him on. No 'Hi', just one snore.

So I tried a craft knife (known as a Stanley knife in the UK) and pushed it between the green and brown plastic where the fixing bar swivels out. If you look at the battery pack just there, there is a thick bit of green to one side of the bar and a thin bit to the other. That's where barneyj refers to the thick posts and the thin ones. By pushing down the thick seam and wiggling the knife, the two bits of plastic (brown and green) split apart quite easily and although the thin pegs broke, the thick ones came apart intact, so they would re-locate and press together when the job was done without having to drill, countersink and screw the bits together.

So don't immediately reach for the Dremel. Try a craft knife first.

barneyj · « **Reply #15 on:** October 31, 2009, 12:46:33 AM »

Glad you were able to pry yours apart. As you can probably see in the first photo, I tried prying it. Unfortunately, the big pegs are glued in solidly on my pack.

BauerMECH · « **Reply #16 on:** December 08, 2009, 05:12:28 PM »

Quote from: mweed on July 10, 2009, 02:08:33 PM

Earlier discussions in the link from 49er's post cover that. It was a comprimise. Originally pleo was going to have built-in non-removable batteries.

More details...

Battery concepts - note the one on the left... it required the removal of the disk via screw. The skin then stretched to expose two more screws. Once those were removed, the panel could be removed and the batteries taken out. Disconnect the leads to replace battery if they failed. You can see where the power adapter plugged in for charging the bat pack. Ya got the problems mweed stated earlier plus, ya had to wait to play w/ Pleo until charging was complete (couldn't toss in a new pack), and Pleo would get mighty hot and would take a lot longer to wait for packs to cool before turning Pleo on.

gucci_boi7782 · « **Reply #17 on:** December 09, 2009, 06:49:53 AM »

Very cool picture Bauer!! Thanks for posting!!

Superperson · « **Reply #18 on:** March 17, 2011, 07:53:32 PM »

nice info thanks!

fimoman · « **Reply #19 on:** April 22, 2011, 11:02:14 AM »

So, wait a minute. Is this just taking the old AA batteries out of the pack, soldering and wiring a set of new AAs together and putting it back into the pack?

I've been having some serious battery problems (with both my battery packs, in an odd coinkidink), and have a feeling that it could be that some of the cells in the pack are just plain dead. Because no matter how much I charge the battery, when it goes green, I can reseat it and it'll go back to red, and no matter how many times I do this, my Pleo still freezes when I turn him on.

So, once I get back into school, I'll see if I can use some of the soldering irons in the DT department (they like me there, it shouldn't be a big problem).

Do you think you could provide some sort of list of everything a person would need to do this? No offense, but some of your instructions to do this are a wee bit vague...

Crewella · « **Reply #20 on:** April 22, 2011, 06:22:46 PM »

Fimo, this was a pretty old post and the member may well not be around much any more, if you're not sure I'd stick with trying to retrain for the minute. Innvo did come up with a battery reconditioning switch on their chargers that put the battery through a long, slow full discharge/charge cycle. That's works on most batteries, so it's worth persevering. If you're really having no luck with that PM me and I'll try to help.

Armand · « **Reply #21 on:** February 26, 2016, 05:37:07 AM »

Hi,

I know this is a pretty old post and when i search i find lots of battery topics, but i am interested in buying extra battery for pleo RB which delivers to Spain, doesn't have to be original, would prefer a higher capacity one.

Anyone has any links here was mentioned ebay but can not find it.

Thanks

peo · « **Reply #22 on:** March 08, 2020, 10:04:42 PM »

Are there supposed to be images on this thread? They don't seem to be here if so.

Bob the Pleo Forums

Author Topic: TUTORIAL: HOW TO REFURBISH A BATTERY PACK. (Read 47682 times)